Chapter One
The City
पणजी
Panaji is the capital on the riverfront — Latin quarters, azulejo tiles, and old houses that paint memory onto walls. It is not a single craft but a temperament — a way the place organises its hands, its markets, and its memory around what it makes.
To read Panaji is to read Goa at close range: the same earthy, museum-quiet attention to material, narrowed to one city’s streets and one community’s patience.


